Friday, April 18, 2014

Alma Benita- Process of Costume 1

 Gown

Choosing fabrics for this doll series was done with much thought and planning. I find that your fabric choice can reach beyond just the color and print, it can bring in a feeling to your piece. 
 As I have stated, I wanted to start with the White Feather from my inspiration words. I loved the floatiness of the feather...being able to take flight strongly and still symbolizing a softness and transparency.
I found a very delicate sheer linen fabric. It was as if I was actually working with feathers.
As this piece is very monochromatic, texture works really well to elicit a visual interest and in this case, with the sheerness a sense of the ethereal.

So light and transparent, every cut edge needed to be stabilized. I needed to use a very light hand while sewing to make certain the gown would be secure but still represented the lightness and floatiness of a feather.
sleeves with stabilized edges

To balance the sheer linen, I used a stiff tightly woven silk. I liked that this silk has a variegated weave within it.

The silk is so crisp that it can hold a beautiful pleat without pressing, which I will show you in the pants later.

The front and back of the bodice have the edges stabilized and then lined with the silk. You can notice that the sleeve areas are not sewn, my main concern here is to remove any bulk was not necessary.
 

The bodice complete with sheer sleeves...

The skirt is higher in the front and will frame the feet. I placed a French seam to one of the sides instead of the traditional back seam. You can spot it if you look carefully on the left of the photo. I planned this since there will be an Alma tag behind the feet and did not want an interruption in the flow of the back of the skirt.
at this point the skirt is un-hemmed.

Pants

When designing this under section, I originally created an underskirt, but found that I lost that transparency that this linen captures do nicely. When sewing, make the best use of your fabric's natural talent

So back to the drawing board and came up with slim cut pants.
In this piece, I added a bit of color to the hemline of each leg that just peeps out from below. I used a bit of my Indian silk fabric that holds a metallic gold thread woven within it.
I enjoy hand-stitching andlove that you can see just the slightest wisp of the thread at the hemline.

Next week, the printed band and Alma tag!



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